Jeans Back Patch Pocket Tutorial

There was a question on my favourite sewing list about sewing on patch pockets. I'm making jeans for DD(16) at the moment and thought I'd take pictures and share my technique along the way. This is for a standard 5 straight sided jeans pocket as shown below.

Overlock the top raw edge of the pocket



Check the pattern for the placement of the fold line at the top of the pocket. Here the fold is 2.5 cm from the raw edge.

Fold the top edge of the pocket down 2.5 cm with right sides together.

Sew down the folded section at each side along the seam allowance (here I'm using 1cm)

and the other side (I like to see where the folded piece finishes)

Progress so far ...

Trim the threads and a little of the folded edge inside the seam allowance, just a little diagonal cut.

Turn the right way out and press, making sure the top corners are sharp and the centre of the fold is 2.5cm deep.

Using a long stitch mark the seam allowances around the edge of the pocket. I just sew 4 straight lines, so I don't have to worry about turning corners accurately with a long basting stitch.

Use these lines as a guide while pressing the seam allowances under

I like to stitch along the top hem at the edge of the overlock stitches, here I can see it is at the 2cm mark on my machine. Don't stitch yet!

Turn the pocket over so that the right side is facing up. I've changed the top thread to a contrasting orange for top stitching. I lengthen the stitch slightly from 2.5 to 3 on my machine. Sew a line 2cm from the top.

Here's the pocket ready to sew on to the back of the jeans.

I'll post more pictures next sewing/computer session
Happy to answer any questions :-).

Pants Modelled

DS is wearing his new pants today and he's quite happy with them, thinks the details are cool and he wouldn't mind another pair of the same design in the olive canvas. He would prefer a longer crotch so I'll have to find out how to make that kind of alteration before making the next pair. They're very long but we think they'll be fine worn srunched up over shoes.


Here's a shot of the fit at the back with DS using the hip pockets.

Black Cotton Drill Pants

Happy to say that I've finished a pair of black cotton drill pants for DS(14) this week. I've got some delicious olive canvas waiting to make up so I thought I'd try this pattern out in a practice fabric. This is pattern #32 from Ottobre issue 3/2004, made in the largest size 170.

I particularly like the triple topstitching on the back yokes and the back pocket detail.



DS likes to be able to use his hip pockets so the diagonal design was appealing too, shown below. The front leg is split below the knee to add interest with some more triple topstitching detail. I had a cute soccer ball button which I suggested using but for some reason DS chose this boring black one ;-).

Here's another shot attempting to show the details. DS usually doesn't approve contrast topstitching but agreed to grey this time (he even nearly chose red on black!). So glad, it made all the effort worthwhile :-).

Go Burda Style!

I was very excited to read that Burda Style have embraced open source sewing. This means that they've removed the copyright from their patterns, sharing intellectual property. We can sew and sell our creations using Burda patterns!! For more details see the Burda Style blog.

Now I just have to resist the crazy urge to resign from my job and sew for a living, LOL ;-)!

Ugly Duckling?

I finished one of my Ottobre SWAP 2009 garments today, Viscose Jersey Crossover Top design #17 in the Autumn/Winter 5/2008 issue of Ottobre Woman (size 44). I really thought it looked absolutely awful as I laid it out on the table for a photo. I thought it had been a total waste of time and fabric making this top :-(. See what I mean?


I was dreading the look of it on me but amazingly I was absolutely thrilled! The fabric feels gorgeous, a lovely soft stretchy viscose jersey, and the top looks alright after all (just standing a little awkardly I think, tired back after sewing and trying to keep my arm away from the side seam detail) :-). I think it'll look great with this skirt.


The side pleat detail is my favourite part of the top, 3 little inverted pleats giving the front a little 3D interest. It's also nice to have two layers of jersey fabric across the tummy, a little more forgiving of curves!


Alterations:

The pattern is able to be made with or without a collar and stand. I made it without the collar because I find jersey collars look a little limper than I like a collar to be and other members who have made this top commented on not liking the collar style. I may have tried using a woven for the collar if I had a suitable piece but couldn't come up with one!

I used pale pink ribbing for the neckline binding rather than self-fabric. I thought the jersey was too stretchy to support itself as binding. It peeps out a little but I can live with it, I'll just have to try to be a galloping horse ;-).

Being of shortish stature, as usual I had to cut 1" off the sleeve edges and 2" off the top length before hemming.

There are some funny lines under my arm, when I lift my arms it looks a little like the sleeve opening is a little too big. Surely my chest is not big enough for a bust alteration! Any hints ideas would be welcome, but be kind ;-)!

Sewing Plans

I have lots of sewing plans, I'm not sure how I'm going to fit it all in!

I'm participating in a Sewing With a Plan activity with my Ottobre-English group. Here are the first and second completed steps, choosing designs and fabrics.


What else...
- I have a big bag full of penne crushed velvet to make capes for the school's Spring Fair in November.
- I have 3 more Rail Fence blocks to make in August/Sept for a swap with my Quilting For All group.
- I have Pay It Forward gifts to create for two lovely on-line friends, by March 2010, already moving along.
- My 3 kids need new pants to keep them warm this winter (hopefully before spring arrives!). I've traced one pattern for each of them and have the right fabric to make at least one each. J prefers track pants, O prefers canvas pants and E prefers jeans, variety the spice of life :-).
- the dogs still need more bedding.

Now if only work didn't get in the way I'd be set ;-)!

Catching Up

I made a skirt for myself recently which I'd like to share with you. The main fabric was given to me by a generous work colleague, leftovers from a skirt she made for herself, a very pretty embroidered fabric. There were quite a few wedge shaped pieces which worked really well for a 10 gore skirt design from Ottobre Woman.




Do you like the fun little secret touch inside, lining remnants! Feels like my own secret carnivale skirt :-). Would you believe DD(16) saw it and asked if she could borrow it and wear it inside out, LOL!!!



I would really love to make this skirt again but without the contrasting hem band. I much preferred the drape of the skirt before the hem band was sewn on, it seems to hold the skirt out making the biggest part of my body look more voluminous!

Spoiling myself - Sewing baby clothes

After spending some time with my mum over Christmas I was inspired to give patchworking a go for a year. I've finally realised 6 months in that I don't really enjoy it at all and I was found myself increasingly avoiding the sewing room (and blogging), sorry to all those fans who are addicted but I found it quite tedious!!

So I needed to get back in the saddle and spoil myself with some fun sewing, what better excuse than sewing for new babies :-)!!

Here's one for two work colleagues who knew they were expecting a baby boy, this one was made for the dad using cute 'Daddy's Little Boy' fabric :-). I made a 'Where's Wally' style baby outfit to make the mum smile, as we joked around about her clothing being in that style, LOL ;-). Unfortunately I completely forgot to take a photo of the finished outfit but he wore it when he came to visit us all at work :-).

I loved the design feature of an invisible zip in the front raglan shoulder seam, and the cute little patch.

I also made a sporty little outfit for my first nephew who is now just over 6 months old. I was lucky enough to see him wearing it yesterday at a family gathering :-). My husband and his twin brother are avid soccer fans so this fabric was just perfect for my DBILs little boy (who has 5 big sisters!).

The only oops in this top is that the zipper is not a separating one, LOL. It was a black chunky zipper in my stash of the perfect length. I only realised it didn't separate after I'd finished sewing!! DSIL thought it was a great idea, so much easier to manage than trying to join the bottom of a zipper up on a wriggling baby. I'll have to remember this mistake, could be the start of a whole new trend :-).

Happy to be back in the sewing room :-)