Jeans Back Patch Pocket Tutorial

There was a question on my favourite sewing list about sewing on patch pockets. I'm making jeans for DD(16) at the moment and thought I'd take pictures and share my technique along the way. This is for a standard 5 straight sided jeans pocket as shown below.

Overlock the top raw edge of the pocket



Check the pattern for the placement of the fold line at the top of the pocket. Here the fold is 2.5 cm from the raw edge.

Fold the top edge of the pocket down 2.5 cm with right sides together.

Sew down the folded section at each side along the seam allowance (here I'm using 1cm)

and the other side (I like to see where the folded piece finishes)

Progress so far ...

Trim the threads and a little of the folded edge inside the seam allowance, just a little diagonal cut.

Turn the right way out and press, making sure the top corners are sharp and the centre of the fold is 2.5cm deep.

Using a long stitch mark the seam allowances around the edge of the pocket. I just sew 4 straight lines, so I don't have to worry about turning corners accurately with a long basting stitch.

Use these lines as a guide while pressing the seam allowances under

I like to stitch along the top hem at the edge of the overlock stitches, here I can see it is at the 2cm mark on my machine. Don't stitch yet!

Turn the pocket over so that the right side is facing up. I've changed the top thread to a contrasting orange for top stitching. I lengthen the stitch slightly from 2.5 to 3 on my machine. Sew a line 2cm from the top.

Here's the pocket ready to sew on to the back of the jeans.

I'll post more pictures next sewing/computer session
Happy to answer any questions :-).

Pants Modelled

DS is wearing his new pants today and he's quite happy with them, thinks the details are cool and he wouldn't mind another pair of the same design in the olive canvas. He would prefer a longer crotch so I'll have to find out how to make that kind of alteration before making the next pair. They're very long but we think they'll be fine worn srunched up over shoes.


Here's a shot of the fit at the back with DS using the hip pockets.

New Ottobre Woman

The new issue of Ottobre Woman is nearly here! You can also check out the Ottobre Blog for pictures. Some highlights for me are shown below :-)

A pretty frilly scarf

I'm a sucker for shirts!


there's some sensible looking underwear :-)

and a nice sporty outfit.

Stalking the postie!!

Black Cotton Drill Pants

Happy to say that I've finished a pair of black cotton drill pants for DS(14) this week. I've got some delicious olive canvas waiting to make up so I thought I'd try this pattern out in a practice fabric. This is pattern #32 from Ottobre issue 3/2004, made in the largest size 170.

I particularly like the triple topstitching on the back yokes and the back pocket detail.



DS likes to be able to use his hip pockets so the diagonal design was appealing too, shown below. The front leg is split below the knee to add interest with some more triple topstitching detail. I had a cute soccer ball button which I suggested using but for some reason DS chose this boring black one ;-).

Here's another shot attempting to show the details. DS usually doesn't approve contrast topstitching but agreed to grey this time (he even nearly chose red on black!). So glad, it made all the effort worthwhile :-).

Hilarious Sewing Machine Ad

I noticed this ad today in the classifieds at work, honest!! It cracked me up - hope it gives you a good giggle too!! LOL

This thing is a Janome Mystyle 16.

Comes with instructions ,spare plate, pedal, unpicker,screwdriver, needles, 3 spare bobbins & machine vinyl cover.

$100.00

I bought this for an old girlfriend to try to get her to do stuff. When we broke up a few years ago she used it to sew up the legs of all my jeans and sleeves of all my shirts.
It hadn't been used for a few years since but when but I plugged it in the other day it still runs perfectly.

Hardly used.

$100

Go Burda Style!

I was very excited to read that Burda Style have embraced open source sewing. This means that they've removed the copyright from their patterns, sharing intellectual property. We can sew and sell our creations using Burda patterns!! For more details see the Burda Style blog.

Now I just have to resist the crazy urge to resign from my job and sew for a living, LOL ;-)!

Ugly Duckling?

I finished one of my Ottobre SWAP 2009 garments today, Viscose Jersey Crossover Top design #17 in the Autumn/Winter 5/2008 issue of Ottobre Woman (size 44). I really thought it looked absolutely awful as I laid it out on the table for a photo. I thought it had been a total waste of time and fabric making this top :-(. See what I mean?


I was dreading the look of it on me but amazingly I was absolutely thrilled! The fabric feels gorgeous, a lovely soft stretchy viscose jersey, and the top looks alright after all (just standing a little awkardly I think, tired back after sewing and trying to keep my arm away from the side seam detail) :-). I think it'll look great with this skirt.


The side pleat detail is my favourite part of the top, 3 little inverted pleats giving the front a little 3D interest. It's also nice to have two layers of jersey fabric across the tummy, a little more forgiving of curves!


Alterations:

The pattern is able to be made with or without a collar and stand. I made it without the collar because I find jersey collars look a little limper than I like a collar to be and other members who have made this top commented on not liking the collar style. I may have tried using a woven for the collar if I had a suitable piece but couldn't come up with one!

I used pale pink ribbing for the neckline binding rather than self-fabric. I thought the jersey was too stretchy to support itself as binding. It peeps out a little but I can live with it, I'll just have to try to be a galloping horse ;-).

Being of shortish stature, as usual I had to cut 1" off the sleeve edges and 2" off the top length before hemming.

There are some funny lines under my arm, when I lift my arms it looks a little like the sleeve opening is a little too big. Surely my chest is not big enough for a bust alteration! Any hints ideas would be welcome, but be kind ;-)!